December 3, 2010

Farewell Fab Five


5 strangers. Thousands of miles away from home. 1 house. A delightful experience.
I think we all had our reservations about living in a household full of females, but it worked out great.  Us five (fabulous) ladies conquered east Legon.
The first of our household departs this weekend.  I'll be the last to go. 

We arrived as
Lauren, Ada, Emily, Molly and Gina.
We depart as
Ama, Adua, Akua, Akua and Afia.

Our favorite hang out

November 29, 2010

Buduburam Liberian Refugee Camp


One of my housemates, Emily, interns with WISE Women's Initiative for Self Empowerment.  Twice a week she visits the small counseling center they have set up in Buduburam.  Buduburam is the Liberian refugee camp that is situated about 40 kilometers west of Accra. 

Brief History on Buduburam
        Buduburam was established in 1990 to accommodate the sudden increase of Liberian refugees who fled to Ghana when Charles Taylor came to power. The United Nations High Commissioner for Refugees (UNHCR) was initially very supportive and provided the settlement’s residents with individual aid and relief.
In 1997, however, after Liberia held elections, the UN decreed that Liberia was safe and stable. As a result, the UNHCR discontinued refugee assistance to Liberians in Ghana, and the settlement lost much of its funding.  Thousands of refugees returned to Liberia, but the majority chose to remain in Ghana. 
        Soon after the 1997 elections, the political situation in Liberia worsened, and the second Liberian civil war erupted.  Although the UNHCR limits its personal aid efforts in the settlement to unaccompanied minors, the elderly, and the disabled, the organization does sponsor infrastructure work within the community, funding projects such as construction and education.  As the UNHCR is increasing its pressure for repatriation, its aid is being withdrawn. 
        Now Buduburam is host to about 40,000 refugees, most of whom are Liberian, the settlement still receives new refugees on a regular basis. 

        While I visited last week, a group of women had started a protest, to try and bring down Sambolla, the leader of the refugee camp.  When we spoke to the women, they were filled with so much tenacity and expressed all of their frustrations about the camp with us.  They wanted someone who represented them, and someone who did not care about Ghanaian special interests.  They wanted to be informed.  They wanted somewhere to live where they didn't have to pay for their basic needs such as toilet use, water, etc.  They wanted to have job opportunities.  They didn't want to go back to Liberia, it is not safe for them, it is not home. 

        The UNHCR is actively promoting voluntary repatriation.  I was a bit frustrated with the literature that was urging them to return home.  It seemed it would either not be simple enough for many of the refugees to understand or it seemed like blatant propaganda (view comic photo below). 
"There is no place like home..."
What would you suggest for all these thousands of displaced people with such limited resources and opportunities?  


        We visited a woman who has been given a microcredit loan from WISE and she has started a small business where she sells water and some small food products.  It would be better if she were able to sell a heartier food, than just snacks and hard candies, but she has a medical condition that prevents her from cooking, as the heat is not good for her health.  This makes it increasingly difficult for her to bring in enough money to meet all her basic needs and pay back her loan with the interest. 
         While we were sitting with her, a young boy, Chris (above) was petrified to see Emily and I initially.  With time he warmed up to us. : )

November 26, 2010

Ghanaian Food



Fufu with lightsoup
        Ghanaian food is generally simple, but plentiful in flavor. Meals tend to be very starchy and heavy on the spices.  The majority of meals consist of thick, well-seasoned stews, usually accompanied by such staple foods as rice or boiled yams.
       A few of the staple foods are Fufu, Banku, Jollof rice, Waakye, Kenkey, and Red Red.  Fufu is made of cassava and plaintain. It is pounded with a huge wooden mortar and pestle into a big ball, which is called fufu.  Banku is made similarly, however it is made of fermented corn dough and cassava dough.  It tastes more sour and less sweet than fufu.  Fufu and banku are eaten with your hand (the right of course, never the left).  At vegetable stands you will often find kenkey which is fermented corn dough wrapped in corn or plantain leaves.  Jollof rice is a spicy tomato flavored rice.  Rice and beans, waakye, are a more healthy, less spicy option in Ghana.  One of my favorites is red red, which is very well spiced beans with fried plantains.  Other foods that can be found at many street vendors are fried rice and egg sandwiches.  Tons of fresh fruit can be found everywhere- paw paw (papaya), pineapple, oranges (which are green) and bananas.
        A meal from a street vendor generally costs about 1 Ghana cedi, which is about 70 cents in the US.  When ordering, you must say the amount in terms of cost - 50 pesewas red red,  20 pesewas plantain. 
        Due to poor water treatment, bottled water is a must.  A less expensive way of getting water is through water sachets, which are only 5 pesewas (a few pennies) for a half liter bag. 


A frequented lunch spot of mine
Red Red
Palava stew with boiled yam and fried plaintain
Tilapia
          For dessert, if kelewele (fried plaintains) is not sufficient, you will not have to look far to find some delicious doughnuts or a FanIce product.  There are plenty of guys honking their horns as they push a cart full of FanYogo and FanIce.  On a very hot day, there is nothing better than tearing the corner off of one of those bags and indulging in something reminiscent of a milkshake, definitely worth 40 pesewas. 
Doughnuts
FaniIce!

November 16, 2010

Buruku Rock Pillar Shrine


Hospitality is arguably the selling point for Ghana.  

     After four hours of riding north in cramped tro tros(vans) we arrived in Kwahu Tafo.  We had not made any arrangements for accommodations and the sun was beginning to set.  I noticed two obrunis (white folk) and we decided to introduce ourselves.  We asked if they knew anything about a place to stay...  
fast forward two minutes...  
     A very nice SUV rolls up with two individuals who we learn are Humphrey, the Chief of Development and Prince Boat.  Humphrey Barclay is a very well-to-do British TV series producer, who has founded the organization Friends of Tafo.  He has done wonders for the community - established a library, brought computers to the schools, increased sanitation, etc, etc.  He whisked us away to his palace and gave us a cold drink and told us a great deal about the area.  Then, Boat took us all around the little local hot spots that evening. 
    We could hardly believe our luck.  At times, it can be frustrating to have everyone acknowledge you because of your race.  But really, it is so nice to be acknowledged as a visitor and given the royal treatment.  

     The next morning Gustav and I wandered through town with a faint idea of what we wanted to do - Adventure and hike.  We had heard that the Buruku Rock Pillar Shrine was a good day hike and it certainly looked spectacular off in the distance. 
     Ghanaians believe that the natural and spiritual world are very tightly knit.  Thus, whenever the natural world exemplifies any mark of being extraordinary it may be deemed sacred. The rock pillar is sacred and home to a God who distastes yams.  Story goes that it used to be twice as tall, but one day an ant holding a yam climbed atop Buruku, and lo and behold the top half crumbled down!  What a mighty, mighty ant. 
     We wandered around town asking for directions, and giving the abridged version of our life story to every Ghanaian we passed (everyone asks "Whatareyoudoinghere?Whereareyoufrom?Whatisyourname?Whereareyougoing?"). This makes getting lost in Ghana nearly impossible.  I had my mind set on roughing it through the bush alone.  Luckily, I did not get my way and a young village boy decided to be our guide. 

Young boy - "Where are you going?"
Us - "Buruku Rock Pillar Shrine."
Young boy - "OK, lets go."

     Once we left the road, we found it to be quite difficult to find our way.  No worry, we ran across two other young boys that decided to join us on our hike.  Also, they had machetes, which made working our way through the bush a bit easier.  We got to this cliff edge, where the boys were determined to find a way for us to get down.  A jump here, slide there, grab that branch (hope to God it doesn't break) and we were down.  It was hot out, we got lots of cuts on our arms and legs, but damn were we determined to get to Buruku.  Without the help of those young boys, I'm not quite sure how we would have made our way. 
     Once we reached Buruku, Gustav poured some drink as an offering, we were told if we didn't do this then our cameras would be spoiled.  From the top we could see Lake Volta and a few small villages; it was a beautiful sight.  It was funny to think that we had struggled so much to get up to where we were, since it looked like a relatively simple climb.  Not having a proper path had proven to be a bit treacherous at times.  Looking down the bush did not seem to be that tall or thorny and the slight slope did not seem to be slippery, but looks can be deceiving.

It was just the adventure I had been craving. 

Contemplating our Path

November 10, 2010

Volta Region


Over the weekend our program traveled to the Volta Region.  The landscape was so lush and green.  The Volta Region is in the southeastern part of Ghana and spans along the east end of Lake Volta.  We stayed at the capital, Ho.  Lake Volta is the largest reservoir on the surface of the globe.  Its formation was a result of the Akosombo Dam.  This hydroelectric dam which is pictured below (2nd to last photo) was built when Kwame Nkrumah was in office.  The Aksombo Dam symbolizes growth and a new beginning for Ghana. 

During our stay in the Volta Region we traveled to the Agumatsa National Park and went on a short hike to reach Wli Falls (pictured above).  Wli Falls are the tallest water falls in West Africa. The path we took to the falls had 11 points where we crossed the Agumatsa River.  Once we reached the falls some of my program mates ventured into the pool of water and slowly made their way beneath the falls.  On the rock face were thousands of fruit bats.  It doesn't seem like the best place for rest... direct sunlight, mist from the rainfall, but boy does it have a view. 




 
We visited a small village that is home to the Tafi Monkey Sanctuary.  This was such a treat!  Walking into the jungle I was a bit on edge.  I expected large, mean, trouble-makers.  What I found instead was small, friendly, cute, trouble-makers.  We brought a bunch of bananas with us and our guide, showed us how to properly feed them.  Then he proceeded to say that sometimes they'll eat right off your arm!  So, I extended my arm about one foot from the tree trunk and waited.  The little guys scrambled down and reached out... eventually one hopped on board and enjoyed a tasty treat from the seat of my arm! 
As we were departing the jungle the sun was setting and the monkeys were preparing for slumber.  They were hopping from tree to tree above our heads.  We even saw Commander, the King of the particular group of monkeys we had just fed.  At the end of the visit, our guide explained the benefits of the monkey sanctuary and relationship between the monkeys and the Ghanaians.  He explained that the funds have helped increase proper sanitation practices in the village, which of course leads to reduction in spread of disease.  Also, since the monkeys are now protected, so is their natural habitat.  All in all, it seems that this little ecosystem seems to be growing and prospering. 

November 2, 2010

Life Is Beautiful

The internet is very unreliable in Ghana. 
When it is working it's at a very slow pace...
My neighborhood has been out of internet for the past week... or two?

I'm keeping it short and sweet for now...

I feel as though it's all downhill now.
I'm reading 'Breakfast of Champions' by Kurt Vonnegut and discussing culture with friends from all the corners of the globe... It makes me a bit weary to return to the States, but heck I love the Northwest. 

This week...
the random beauties...

On my walk home from class

On my walk to work
Ada
Ada
Eastern Region
Eastern Region
Also, we threw a Halloween Party - I was a mosquito!

October 22, 2010

the Happy Feminist Journeys to Shelter


Last week, during my midterm break I traveled to the Eastern Region with The Ark and stayed at the women's shelter.  
We traveled a few hours north of Accra.  When we arrived at the shelter and the gate began to open I heard the cheers of children.  My, oh my; how I hadn't expected all these little guys.  The moment I stepped out of the bus the cheering stopped.  This was unexpected to me, but I suppose they're cautious around newcomers.  Luckily, it didn't take long for them to warm up to me.

The first night at the shelter was the most difficult experience I've encountered in my study abroad yet.  After I ate dinner, the kids requested I come out to the classroom and teach them something.  I was at a loss, but didn't want to refuse their gracious invitation.  So, I accepted and when I stepped outside I saw them all scurrying around arranging chairs.  There were about ten of them, and most didn't speak a word of English.  
I sat in the circle of chairs with them and we found one thing that was universally understood.  Laughter.  Even though I didn't have any grand story to tell them or lesson to teach them, they were constantly entertained by my strange mannerisms.  They also had some really cute songs to teach me.  The girl in the picture above holds a special place in my heart, her name is Adua.  That first night, her little sister would not stop crying.  Adua was carrying her, trying to soothe her, all the while with a smile.  I did my best to keep my poker face, since the last thing these children need is pity.  

When I returned to my room that evening, thoroughly exhausted from everything my mind was racing to process.  I collapsed beneath my mosquito net.  I wrote pages, upon pages within in my journal, mostly questioning my purpose in being here.  Who did I think I was, trampsing into this place?  So that I could simply have an experience?  Who did I think I was imagining myself as a person who had trials and trivulations?  In short, it was a deep moment of doubt.  

When I awoke the next morning at dawn, I heard yells.  
"ADUA!".... "ADUA!"  
No rest for the weary. 

I am in love with Aunty Beatrice.  Aunty Beatrice is a beautiful and resilient woman; she runs the shelter.  She has two children of her own, who stay at the shelter with her, and a husband, whom she sees on the weekend.  Every morning when I awoke, Aunty Beatrice had a warm plate of food waiting for me.  The same can be said for every afternoon and evening.  She even taught me how to cook Kontombre ( ( yum, yum, yum. ) ); it will forever be a treasured memory.   Sitting in the kitchen with Evaa, and getting mocked at by one of the little girls for doing such a sloppy job was priceless.  I find that using a knife to cut leaves with only your hands (no cutting board/counter) is not always the simplest task.  I can only imagine how amused they would have been to see the way I would cut my vegetables back at home.


Some of the boys were pro at sneaking into my room.  The photo above was from my last night in the shelter, I am going to miss those little rascals so much.  Also, after I realized laughter can't get lost in translation, I also realized neither can TICKLING!  : )

KWASE - synonymous with CRAZY  ; )

October 18, 2010

We Do It for the Kids


When did I become a celebrity?  August 13th, 2010.  
Of all my moments on the stage as a flutist, actress, singer or whatever, none have compared to my daily excursions in Ghana.  Every time I leave the house it's as though I'm preparing for a parade.  Pageant queen wave, check, sturdy walking shoes, check, hair and makeup... Well, you get the point. 
The image above was a moment that caused me to blush more than I have in a decade.  These children, were all so over joyed to see me.  Me!  ...  Me?  Why, yes... me.  Simply, because I am an obruni; I am white.  I have journeyed all this way to see them; to try and build a better future for the children.  

This past week was my midterm break, so I decided it would be a good opportunity for me to take a trip with my internship to some of the rural communities.  The Ark has been sponsored by Nestle Ghana ((Milo, anyone?)) for some years now to go to the schools in the Eastern Region and educate about Children's Rights.  The Eastern Region is a huge producer of cocoa and a lot of children are recruited to work in the field, and thus aren't able to go to school.  Therefore, the Ark wrote a proposal to Nestle asking them to fund their efforts to educate children on their rights (one of them being the right to an education).  
I went with the Ark to various villages to educate primary and junior high children on child's rights and child abuse.  I did my best to stay on the sidelines; taking notes and pictures, etc.  However, one of my supervisors liked to try to get me involved.  My second day, I was watching him give his lecture to the kids and when he was done he walked off, and gestured to me saying I had a word to contribute.  I rose, stammered to find a few words, and thoroughly embarrassed myself.  However, the students were all very amused by this performance. 
At times, it was difficult for me to remain on the sidelines.  As we were educating on child abuse, some of the teachers would use cains to keep the kids in line.  The contradictory nature of this situation was overbearing at moments.  However, watching the expressions of the teachers during these lectures was really fascinating to me.  I was overjoyed during one session, when a few teachers really seemed to try to grasp the idea of why caning as a course of disciplinary action was wrong.  How else, were they to get children to stay in line?   Caning is just the simplest way and it was how they were disciplined in school. 
Another point of sadness for me, was the moments of Q&A.  In one session that I sat in on, Evelyn, a social worker with the Ark, posed the question "How much money do you get for lunch?" and "How many times a day do you eat?"  It was astonishing to hear how many children got around the equivalent of a quarter to feed themselves.  Also, the majority of the children ate only breakfast and supper.  I imagine it must make focusing at school very difficult. 
At the end of the lecture when the children got the opportunity to ask questions, I was overwhelmed with how much they had to battle against, to remain in the classroom.  One boy, had such a look of defiance on his face when he inquired about the situation he had at home.  He was probably around the age of twelve and had to raise money for all of his needs; food, clothes, education, etc.  
These kids are such champions.